Answers, Not Sales Pitches

Fence Questions from East Tennessee Homeowners & Property Managers

Everything we get asked in the field — costs, permits, property lines, materials, timelines and commercial work. Search it, filter it, or read straight through. Written by the crew that has been fencing Knox, Loudon, Roane and Anderson counties since 1973.

Do you charge for estimates?

No. Every LC Fence estimate is free and done in person. We do not quote fences over the phone or from satellite imagery, because East Tennessee lots rarely cooperate — grade changes, rock shelf, buried lines, drainage swales and tree roots all move the number. A project manager walks the line with you, measures it, and puts a written proposal together.

Call (865) 988-9935 or request an estimate online.

What should I expect during my free estimate?

Julie schedules the appointment. Try to have everyone who will be making the decision present — it saves a second trip and a lot of back-and-forth. A project manager walks the property, measures the run, talks through style and function, and flags anything that affects price: slope, rock, tree removal, existing fence, gate placement, access for equipment.

You will typically have a written proposal within about 24 hours.

What are the steps to planning a fence installation?

In order:

  • Talk to your neighbors and your HOA before anything else. Most fence disputes are avoidable conversations that never happened.
  • Find your plat or survey. Know where your line actually is, not where the mowing pattern says it is.
  • Check permit requirements with your city or county — they vary a lot inside our service area.
  • Pick style and function. Privacy, containment, security, livestock and curb appeal all point to different builds.
  • Consider wind. On exposed ridgelines and lake lots, a fence with 25–50% open space takes wind far better than a solid panel.
What should I ask any fence contractor before I sign?

Five questions that separate real contractors from truck-and-a-trailer operations:

  • What is your Tennessee contractor license number, and what is its monetary limit? You can verify any license at search.cloud.commerce.tn.gov. Ours is #54371, Unlimited.
  • Do you carry general liability and workers' comp, and will you send certificates?
  • Who actually installs it — your crew or a broker's subcontractor?
  • Who calls Tennessee 811?
  • What is the workmanship warranty, in writing?
Should I install my own fence or hire a professional?

The honest answer depends on the fence. A short run of split rail on flat ground is a realistic weekend project. A 200-foot privacy fence on East Tennessee grade is not — the failure points are post depth, line straightness on slope, and gate posts that rack within a year.

Two things to know regardless. First, Tennessee 811 locates are legally required before you dig under Tenn. Code Ann. § 65-31-101. Second, and most people have never heard this one:

A Home Improvement license is required in Bradley, Davidson, Hamilton, Haywood, Knox, Marion, Robertson, Rutherford and Shelby counties for "residential remodeling projects from $3,000 to $24,999."Tennessee Department of Commerce & Insurance, Home Improvement License (T.C.A. § 62-6-501)

Above $25,000, a full contractor's license is required statewide under T.C.A. § 62-6-102 — and § 62-6-103(a)(1) makes it unlawful to even offer to contract without one.

Do I need HOA approval for a fence?

If you are in an HOA, almost certainly yes — and HOA covenants are usually stricter than city or county code. They commonly dictate maximum height, permitted materials, colors, whether chain link is allowed at all, and which direction the finished side must face.

Get written approval before we order material. An HOA denial after fabrication is an expensive lesson, and covenants are enforceable in a way that neighborly opinions are not.

What time of year is best to install a fence in East Tennessee?

We install year-round. East Tennessee winters are mild enough that frozen ground rarely stops us — Knox County's building code requires footings only 12 inches below grade, which tells you how shallow our frost depth is.

The practical considerations are different: spring and early summer are our busiest stretch, so lead times run longest. Late fall and winter often mean a shorter wait. Sustained rain is the real scheduler — wet clay and post holes do not mix.

What areas do you serve?

We install across ten East Tennessee counties from our yard at 5482 Hwy 321 N in Lenoir City: Knox, Loudon, Roane, Anderson, Blount, Sevier, Monroe, McMinn, Rhea and Meigs.

That covers Knoxville, Farragut, Oak Ridge, Clinton, Maryville, Alcoa, Lenoir City, Loudon, Kingston, Harriman, Rockwood, Sevierville, Powell, Halls, Karns, Concord, Tellico Village and the surrounding communities. We are about 25 minutes from Oak Ridge and the East Tennessee Technology Park.

How much does a fence cost per linear foot?

Installed ranges for East Tennessee in 2026, materials and labor included:

  • Chain link: about $10–$40/ft (4' galvanized at the low end, taller or black vinyl-coated at the high end)
  • Wood privacy (pressure-treated pine): about $14–$50/ft
  • Vinyl privacy: about $19–$60/ft
  • Ornamental aluminum: about $24–$70/ft
  • Farm and field fence: about $12–$30/ft

Height, rock, slope, gates and access decide where your project lands in each range. See our 2026 Knoxville fence cost guide for the full breakdown. Older published Knoxville pricing runs low — steel is up about 24% and aluminum about 60% over the last two years. Anyone quoting you a firm per-foot number without seeing your property is guessing.

What does a typical backyard fence cost?

A typical 150-foot East Tennessee backyard usually lands between $2,100 and $7,500 installed, depending on material.

By material at 200 feet: chain link about $2,000–$8,000, wood privacy $2,800–$10,000, vinyl $3,800–$12,000, ornamental aluminum $4,800–$14,000. Gates, slope, rock and demolition move those numbers. See how much a fence costs in East Tennessee.

What actually drives the price of my fence up?

In our market, in rough order of impact:

  • Rock. East Tennessee sits on limestone and shale. Hitting rock shelf turns a two-minute post hole into a much longer job.
  • Slope. Racking or stepping a fence down grade takes more posts, more cuts and more labor.
  • Gates. Every gate needs heavier posts and hardware. Driveway gates especially.
  • Height. Going 6' to 8' is more than a 33% material increase — posts get longer and heavier too.
  • Access. If equipment can't reach the line, material gets carried.
  • Demolition. Removing and hauling the old fence.
  • Tree and root work along the line.
What is the cheapest fence to install?

Chain link is the lowest installed cost per foot for a real, durable fence — starting around $10 per linear foot installed for 4-foot residential chain link. For acreage where you only need a boundary rather than privacy, high-tensile wire is dramatically cheaper, under $1.25/ft in national data, and woven wire runs about $1.50–$1.90/ft.

Among privacy options, pressure-treated pine is normally the least expensive. Be careful chasing the lowest bid on wood, though — thin pickets, 8-foot post spacing and non-ground-contact-rated posts are where cheap fences come from, and they show it in year three. See our breakdown of the cheapest fence options.

Why are fence prices higher than they were a few years ago?

Because the raw materials are, measurably. U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics Producer Price Index data through July 2026 shows, over 24 months:

  • Aluminum mill shapes: up 60.0% (index 242.4 → 387.8)
  • Iron and steel: up 24.2% (301.3 → 374.1)
  • Lumber: up 17.6% (247.5 → 291.0)

Tariff policy is much of it. Section 232 steel and aluminum tariffs rose from 25% to 50% effective June 4, 2025; a 10% tariff on softwood lumber took effect October 14, 2025; and in April 2026 the Section 232 structure changed again to apply to full customs value rather than metal content.

Steel has climbed every month from January through July 2026. Aluminum peaked in June 2026 and eased slightly in July — the only softening in the set.

This is why we quote from current material cost rather than a price sheet, and why proposals carry an expiration date. Source: BLS Producer Price Index.

How much does a gate add?

A walk gate is the small one: national figures run roughly $90–$250 installed for chain link, $150–$780 for vinyl, and $450–$1,000 for aluminum.

Driveway gates are a different category — typically $500–$3,000+ for a single swing and $1,000–$5,000+ for a double swing or slide, before automation. Add an operator and 2026 national data puts a complete automatic gate around $2,380–$8,000, averaging near $4,000.

Cantilever slide gates for commercial sites run higher, commonly $6,000–$10,000. See our gate options.

Do you remove the old fence, and what does that cost?

Yes, we handle removal and haul-away. National sources put it anywhere from $3–$5 per foot to $10–$20 per foot — a spread that wide exists because it genuinely varies: chain link pulls out fast, while old wood posts set in oversized concrete footings are slow, heavy work.

We price removal from what we see on the walkthrough rather than a flat rate, and disposal is included in the proposal so there is no surprise dump fee.

Do you offer financing?

Yes — we offer financing and payment options for residential projects. Details are on our fence financing page, or ask your project manager during the estimate.

Do you require a deposit?

Most projects involve a deposit, because fence material — particularly ornamental panels, custom gates and anything welded to size — is ordered or fabricated specifically for your job and cannot be returned to stock. The exact terms are stated in your written proposal before you sign anything.

Be cautious with any contractor asking for the full amount up front, and with anyone unwilling to put the payment schedule in writing.

Will a fence add value to my home?

Usually it helps at appraisal, and in neighborhoods where fencing is the norm — or where buyers have dogs or young children — it can be close to a requirement. But we want to be straight with you about the numbers floating around online.

The widely quoted "fences return 30–70% of cost" figure is not from a study. It traces to one home-services aggregator's internal customer data, and other sites cite it circularly.

We checked the usual authority directly. The National Association of Realtors 2025 Remodeling Impact Report — which publishes cost-recovery percentages for exterior projects from steel entry doors (100%) down to siding (54%) — does not include fencing as a project at all.

What we can say from experience: style appropriate to the house and neighborhood matters more than material cost, and a well-built fence in poor condition subtracts value faster than no fence.

Can I split the cost with my neighbor?

You can, and Tennessee law actually contemplates it. Tenn. Code Ann. § 44-8-202 provides that partition fences — fences on the line between two owners — "may be erected and repaired at the expense, jointly, of the occupants or owners," and that someone who later joins onto your fence and uses it as a partition fence owes you their proportion of the expense.

There is an important exception at § 44-8-210: where one side is agricultural land and the other is non-agricultural residential land with no livestock, the residential owner may disclaim responsibility for a partition fence.

In practice, get any cost-sharing agreement in writing. We are happy to write two separate proposals so each party has their own paperwork. This is general information, not legal advice.

How long is my quote good for?

Each proposal carries its own expiration date, and in the current market that window is shorter than it used to be. With aluminum up 60% and steel up 24% over two years, a quote held open indefinitely is a quote we would have to redo anyway.

If your proposal has expired, call us — refreshing it is quick, and in some cases the number hasn't moved.

Can I buy fence materials from you without installation?

For residential, no. Our residential material is ordered and welded per job, so we don't operate a retail counter.

For commercial, call the office. Material-only supply on commercial and industrial work is something we can discuss — reach us at (865) 988-9935.

Do I need a permit to build a fence?

It depends entirely on the jurisdiction, and inside our service area the rules are genuinely inconsistent. Two concrete examples:

  • City of Oak Ridge requires a Zoning Compliance Permit for fences — Zoning Ordinance § 3.08(e).
  • City of Maryville does not require a permit, though the fence still has to comply with the regulations, and Historic District properties do require approval.

Others fall in between or aren't clearly published. We confirm the requirement for your specific address as part of the estimate rather than guessing — and if a permit is needed, we tell you who pulls it.

Verify with your city or county before you build

How tall can a fence be in the City of Knoxville?

Knoxville's Zoning Code, Article 10, § 10.3(L), states it directly:

"From five feet behind the front building line forward to the front lot line and in the corner side yard, privacy fences and walls are limited to 42 inches. Open fences do not have a limit… There is no limit on the height of privacy fences, walls, or open fences in other yards… Fences may be constructed at the boundaries of a lot without setback with the exception of the required visibility triangle."City of Knoxville Zoning Code, Article 10 (PDF)

In plain terms: 42 inches for a privacy fence in the front yard or corner side yard, no height limit in side and rear yards, and you may build right on the boundary. Sight distance near intersections is determined case by case by the City's Department of Engineering under § 10.1(F) rather than by a fixed dimension in the code.

What are the fence rules in unincorporated Knox County?

Unincorporated Knox County's zoning ordinance sets no general maximum height for residential fences and no general fence setback. What it regulates is sight lines:

"On any corner lot where front and side yards are required, no wall, fence, sign, structure, plant growth or any other object which obstructs the vision at elevations between two and one-half (2½) feet and ten (10) feet above the crown of the adjacent roadway shall be placed or maintained within a visibility triangle."Knox County Zoning Ordinance § 3.20.04, as amended April 21, 2025 (PDF)

And in front yards, § 3.20.04.B: "no fence, wall, hedge or yard ornament shall be permitted which materially impedes vision across such yard above the height of three and one-half (3½) feet."

Knox County Codes Administration is the authority on permits for your parcel.

What are Oak Ridge's fence rules?

Oak Ridge has one of the clearest codes in our service area. From its Zoning Ordinance:

  • § 3.07(e) — front yards "not over four (4) feet high"; side and rear yards "not over six (6) feet high"
  • § 3.05 — on a corner lot the non-facing street side may reach six feet "if the top two (2) feet of the fence is lattice or some other open design"
  • § 3.08(e) — "No structure provided for herein shall be erected without a Zoning Compliance Permit"
  • § 3.07(e)(1) — pool enclosures "not to exceed six (6) feet in height," with Board variance approval and notice to neighbors within 75 feet
  • § 3.07(e)(2) — fences may not sit so near an intersection as to "interfere with safe lines-of-sight"
"All fences on double frontage lots must have the finished side of the fence facing the public right-of-way."City of Oak Ridge Zoning Ordinance § 3.08(a), amended through November 19, 2020 (PDF)

We work in Oak Ridge constantly — see our Oak Ridge fencing page.

What are Maryville's fence rules?

Maryville publishes its fence rules plainly, and the headline is that no permit is required:

"No, a permit is not required, however, all fences must be in compliance with the regulations."City of Maryville, Fence Regulations (PDF)

The rest of the regulations:

  • "Any fence erected in the front yard shall be no closer than 5 feet from the street right-of-way."
  • A fence taller than 6 feet must meet accessory-structure setbacks — 5 feet from rear and side lot lines, 10 feet in the Estate Zone.
  • No barbs, spikes, razor wire or electrical wire.
  • Nothing may block "a clear view of traffic and/or traffic control signs."
  • The property owner is responsible for verifying the property line.
  • Properties in Historic Districts do require application and approval.

The underlying code is Maryville Municipal Code § 14-222.

What are the fence rules in Loudon County and Lenoir City?

This is our home county, and candidly, the published rules are thin. Loudon County's zoning resolution sets no general residential fence height, setback or permit requirement that we can locate. It regulates two things:

"Within the area formed by the center lines of the intersecting streets and a line joining points at a distance of seventy-five (75) feet from their intersection, there shall be no obstruction to vision between the height of three and one-half (3 1/2) feet and a height of ten (10) feet."Loudon County Zoning Resolution § 3.050, December 21, 2015 (PDF)
"The swimming pool area shall be walled or fenced with a latching gate so as to prevent uncontrolled access… Said fence or wall not be less than four (4) feet in height."Loudon County Zoning Resolution § 4.070

Lenoir City's zoning ordinance similarly contains no fence height, setback or permit provision we can find; § 11-307 governs vision clearance at intersections between 3½ and 10 feet.

Because the codes are quiet, call Loudon County Planning & Codes or Lenoir City Codes Enforcement for your parcel. An absence of a published rule is not the same as no rule.

What about Farragut, Anderson County, Roane County and Blount County?

Partial answers, honestly labeled:

  • Farragut enforces a visibility triangle measured 25 feet from the right-of-way intersection along each right-of-way, restricting obstruction between 2½ and 10 feet, and limits front-yard obstruction above 3½ feet. We have not been able to confirm a general residential height limit or permit requirement from the Town's own publication.
  • Anderson County — § 05-100 restricts vision obstruction between 3½ and 10 feet at road intersections. No general residential height, setback or permit rule found.
  • Roane County — fences appear only in definitions in the zoning resolution. Permit and height rules unconfirmed.
  • Blount County — we were not able to retrieve the regulations. Contact Blount County directly.

We verify the current requirement for your address before we build. If someone tells you confidently what the rule is in all four of these without checking, be skeptical.

How do I know where my property line is?

Start with your plat — it usually came with your closing documents — and look for survey pins at the corners, often iron rods a few inches below grade. A metal detector finds them more often than people expect.

If the pins are missing, the plat is ambiguous, the neighbor disagrees, or the fence is going anywhere near a line you'd hate to be wrong about, hire a licensed surveyor. We are not surveyors and we will not guess your boundary for you.

No Tennessee statute requires a survey before fencing, but Maryville's regulations put it plainly: the owner is responsible for verifying where the line is. A survey costs a fraction of moving a finished fence.

Should I build right on the property line or inside it?

Most of our customers build a few inches to a foot inside their own line. It keeps the entire structure — including footings and any overhang — unambiguously on your property, lets you maintain both sides without stepping onto your neighbor's land, and avoids the shared-ownership questions a true line fence creates.

Building directly on the line makes it a partition fence under Tenn. Code Ann. § 44-8-201, which brings shared repair obligations and, under § 44-8-208, a requirement of six months' notice before removal. Neither is bad, but both are worth choosing deliberately rather than by accident.

Can my neighbor make me pay for a fence, or tear one down?

Two different questions with two different answers under Tennessee law.

Cost sharing. If someone ties into your fence, they owe you a share:

"Partition fences may be erected and repaired at the expense, jointly, of the occupants or owners; or if a person makes a fence a partition fence, by joining to it or using it as such, that person shall pay to the person erecting it that person's proportion of the expense."Tenn. Code Ann. § 44-8-202

§ 44-8-203 makes a party who "refuses or neglects to keep that person's part of the fence in good repair" liable for damage from trespassing stock, and § 44-8-204 lets a judge appoint three freeholders to assess what is owed when the parties cannot agree.

Removal. § 44-8-208 requires six months' notice before a partition fence is removed, and § 44-8-209 makes removing one without notice a misdemeanor.

General information only — for a real dispute, talk to a Tennessee attorney.

Can a fence in the wrong place cost me land?

Potentially, which is exactly why the survey matters. Tennessee's adverse possession statutes turn on a seven-year period:

"No person… shall have any action, either at law or in equity, for the recovery of any lands… but within seven (7) years after the right of action accrued."Tenn. Code Ann. § 28-2-103

Separately, § 28-2-101 vests "a good and indefeasible title in fee" after seven years of adverse possession under a recorded assurance of title.

A fence built on the wrong side of a line and left there is the classic fact pattern. Get the boundary right the first time. This is general information and not legal advice.

Which side of the fence faces my neighbor?

Convention across most of the country — and common courtesy — is that the finished side faces out, toward your neighbor and the street, with rails and posts on your side.

In our area, the only local rule we can confirm is Oak Ridge § 3.08(a), which requires the finished side to face the public right-of-way on double-frontage lots. HOA covenants frequently impose their own version and are usually the binding constraint.

If it matters to you, a shadowbox or board-on-board design looks finished from both sides and ends the argument.

Who calls for utility locates before digging?

We do, on every job. It is not a courtesy — it is a legal requirement:

"Tennessee state law (65-31-101, Underground Utility Damage Prevention Act) requires anyone who engages in, or is responsible for, the planning or performance of any type of excavation" to provide advance notice.Tennessee 811
  • Notice required: at least 3 working days, and not more than 10 — "that's 72 hours excluding weekends and holidays"
  • Cost: free
  • Ticket validity: 15 calendar days from the start date

One important gap: 811 marks public utilities only. Per Tennessee 811, "811 cannot contact a private locator on your behalf." Private lines are your responsibility — irrigation, invisible dog fence, landscape lighting, gas to a grill or pool heater, and the run to a detached garage or shop. Tell us where those are, or hire a private locator. We can point you to one.

What are the rules for fencing a swimming pool?

Pool barrier requirements are set locally and you should confirm yours before building. What we can state from the codes themselves:

"The swimming pool area shall be walled or fenced with a latching gate so as to prevent uncontrolled access… Said fence or wall not be less than four (4) feet in height."Loudon County Zoning Resolution § 4.070

Oak Ridge § 3.07(e)(1) caps pool enclosures at six feet, requiring Board variance approval and notice to neighbors within 75 feet.

Tennessee has adopted the 2018 International Residential Code, but whether your jurisdiction enforces its pool-barrier appendix — the familiar 48-inch barrier with self-closing, self-latching gates — varies, so we will not state it as a blanket rule.

Separately from code, your insurer may require one. Under the attractive nuisance doctrine, owners are expected to take reasonable measures against hazards that could foreseeably harm a child, and insurers commonly require "a fence at least four feet tall with a locked gate surrounding your pool" as a condition of coverage.

Which fence material should I choose?

Start with the job, not the material:

  • Privacy from neighbors: wood privacy, vinyl privacy, or shadowbox
  • Contain a dog or child, keep the view: ornamental aluminum or chain link
  • Lowest cost per foot: chain link
  • Lowest maintenance: vinyl or aluminum
  • Curb appeal on a front yard: ornamental aluminum or picket
  • Livestock or acreage: board, woven wire, or high-tensile
  • Security and perimeter control: commercial chain link or ornamental steel

Then weigh budget against how long you plan to stay. Compare residential fence types.

How long does a wood fence last?

Industry figures put pressure-treated pine at roughly 10–15 years and western red cedar at 20–25 years when properly maintained. In East Tennessee's humidity and clay, maintenance is what decides where you land in that range.

The single biggest factor is the posts, not the pickets — which is why the next question matters more than most people realize.

Why do fence posts and pickets have different treatment tags?

Because they face different conditions, and the American Wood Protection Association rates them separately. Under AWPA Use Categories, pickets need UC3B — above ground, uncoated, poor water runoff — while posts need UC4A or higher, which is general ground contact with substantially heavier preservative retention.

A post tagged for above-ground use, set in soil, is the most common cause of a wood fence failing early. When you compare bids, ask what the posts are rated for — it is a real difference in cost and in lifespan. Reference: AWPA residential use category guide (PDF).

Cedar or pressure-treated pine?

Cedar resists decay naturally without chemical treatment, weathers to a silver-grey if left alone, stays straighter, and lasts roughly 20–25 years. It costs more.

Pressure-treated pine costs less, is stronger against soil contact, and runs about 10–15 years.

Which is why a lot of well-built fences are both: pressure-treated posts in the ground, cedar pickets above. You get PT's soil resistance where it's needed and cedar's stability and appearance where you see it.

Is a vinyl fence worth the extra cost?

If you plan to stay a long time, often yes. Vinyl runs 20–30 years typically, some well past 50, and needs washing rather than staining. Quality vinyl is manufactured to ASTM F964, which governs dimensional tolerance, extrusion quality, weatherability and impact resistance including impact on weathered specimens.

Warranties can be genuinely long — CertainTeed Bufftech, for example, is lifetime to the original homeowner, capped at 30 years if the property transfers.

Two cautions: cheap vinyl gets brittle and chalky, and painting vinyl voids manufacturer warranties. More on vinyl fencing.

Ornamental aluminum or ornamental steel?

Aluminum does not rust, is lighter, easier on sloped ground, and is the usual residential choice. Good aluminum carries a powder coat specified against AAMA standards — 2603 is entry level, 2604 is super-durable polyester, and 2605 is the fluoropolymer top tier with 10-year Florida exposure testing and excellent gloss retention.

Steel is stronger and the right answer where impact or forced-entry resistance matters — commercial perimeters, utility yards, anywhere a vehicle might contact the fence. It must be coated properly to control corrosion.

For a backyard, aluminum. For a substation, steel. See ornamental options.

Galvanized or black vinyl-coated chain link?

Vinyl-coated costs more — national figures run about $18.75–$40.50 per foot at 4 feet versus $13.15–$28.50 galvanized — and buys two things: it visually recedes so you see through it rather than at it, and the polymer adds a corrosion barrier over the zinc.

Black is the usual choice around homes, pools and athletic fields for exactly that disappearing quality. Galvanized is standard for utility yards, industrial perimeters and anywhere appearance is secondary to cost.

What is a shadowbox fence, and should I get one?

A shadowbox alternates pickets on opposite sides of the rails, so it looks identical and finished from both sides. It gives you most of the privacy of a solid fence while letting air pass through.

That airflow matters more here than people expect. On exposed lots and ridgelines, a solid privacy panel acts as a sail; a fence with 25–50% open space handles wind considerably better. It also ends any "which side faces out" conversation with a neighbor.

Will a privacy fence survive East Tennessee wind and storms?

A properly built one will, but understand what a solid 6- or 8-foot privacy fence is: a continuous wall with no way for wind to pass through. Storm failures almost always trace to post depth, post spacing, or post rating rather than the pickets.

What we do about it: adequate embedment, tighter post spacing on exposed runs, and — where the site calls for it — recommending shadowbox or a design with open space rather than a solid panel.

What about composite fencing?

Composite runs roughly $20–$85 per foot installed in national data — overlapping vinyl and ornamental aluminum. It offers a wood look without staining.

We'd rather talk through it on site than make a blanket recommendation, because composite quality varies widely by manufacturer and the value case depends heavily on which product and which warranty.

How long does installation take?

Most residential fences are a one to three day install once the crew is on site. A standard backyard often goes up in a day or two; larger runs, heavy grade, rock, custom gates or commercial work take longer.

Footage is the main driver, but not the only one — a 150-foot fence across a rock shelf can take longer than 300 feet on flat ground. Your project manager gives you a realistic window with the proposal rather than a stock answer.

When can you start? What is the wait?

We schedule from a waitlist that runs from the date you confirm the job, weather permitting. The wait moves with the season — spring and early summer are our longest, late fall and winter are usually quicker.

Call (865) 988-9935 for the current lead time. We would rather give you an honest date than a comfortable one.

How deep do fence posts go?

The working rule is roughly one-third of the post's total length below grade — a 6-foot fence typically means posts set around 30 to 36 inches deep, plus a gravel base.

Note that in East Tennessee, depth is driven by leverage and wind, not frost. Knox County's building code requires footings only 12 inches below undisturbed grade, which tells you how shallow our frost line is. Anyone setting fence posts at frost depth here is setting them too shallow.

Gate posts and corner posts go deeper and heavier than line posts, because those are the ones that take the load.

How far apart should fence posts be?

Depends on the system:

  • Wood privacy / residential: 6–8 feet, tightened to 4–6 feet at corners and on windy exposures
  • Chain link: CLFMI specifies line posts no more than 10 feet on center; most residential work runs 6–8 feet
  • Farm and field fence: about 10–12 feet, with braced corner assemblies

Wider spacing saves the installer money and costs you rigidity. If a bid is unusually cheap, post count is one of the first places to look.

Do you set posts in concrete or gravel?

The real tradeoff is drainage versus rigidity. Gravel lets water move away so the post doesn't sit wet and rot. Concrete gives lateral stability.

The method most professionals actually use is a combination: a few inches of tamped crushed stone or pea gravel in the bottom of the hole for drainage, then concrete above it for rigidity. Concrete poured straight into a hole with no drainage base is how wood posts rot from the bottom up.

We adapt to the soil we find. Our clay does not behave like sand, and rock shelf does not behave like either.

How do you fence a slope?

Two approaches, and East Tennessee gives us plenty of practice with both.

Racking — the fence follows the grade, with rails running parallel to the ground and no gaps underneath. It works with ornamental aluminum, chain link and some wood, and looks best on a consistent slope.

Stepping — each panel stays level and steps down like a staircase, leaving triangular gaps at the bottom that can be filled with grade boards or landscaping. Required for vinyl panels and preferred on steep or irregular ground.

Which one is right is a site decision, and it affects both price and appearance. We'll show you what each will look like on your specific run.

What happens if you hit rock?

We deal with it — it comes with the territory on limestone and shale. Depending on what we find, that can mean rock augers, breaking, or core drilling and setting the post in the rock.

What matters to you is that rock is a real cost variable, and a proposal that ignores the possibility isn't being straight with you. We flag likely rock during the walkthrough and tell you how we'd handle it before you sign.

What do I need to do before the crew arrives?

A short list, and it genuinely speeds things up:

  • Clear the fence line — move furniture, planters, firewood, trailers, anything within a few feet of the run
  • Mark private lines we can't locate — irrigation, invisible dog fence, landscape lighting, gas to a grill or pool, anything running to a detached building
  • Leave the 811 flags and paint alone
  • Confirm gate locations and which way they should swing
  • Plan for pets during the install — gates will be open and holes will be open
  • Make sure we can get equipment in, including any locked side gate
What about cleanup, ruts and my yard?

We clean up the site, haul off the old fence and our debris, and do a walkthrough with you at the end.

Realistic expectation: digging 30-plus post holes in clay produces spoil, and equipment on soft ground leaves marks. We work to minimize it and rake out where we can, but a fence install is not a landscaping job — some settling and reseeding on your part is normal, especially if we're working after a wet stretch.

If anything doesn't look right at the walkthrough, tell us then. That's what the walkthrough is for.

Why do gates sag, and how do you prevent it?

A gate is a lever, and the post is the fulcrum. Sag comes from an undersized or shallow gate post, an unbraced gate frame, or hardware too light for the leaf.

Prevention is unglamorous: heavier gate posts set deeper than line posts, properly braced frames, and hinges rated for the actual weight. Wide openings get a double gate or a drop rod rather than one oversized leaf.

This is the single most common thing we get called out to repair on other companies' fences.

How wide should my gate be?

Practical minimums:

  • Walk gate: 3–4 feet. Go 4 feet if a wheelbarrow, mower or trash cart has to pass.
  • Equipment access: at least 5 feet, ideally more — measure your widest mower first.
  • Single-vehicle drive: 10–12 feet.
  • Two-vehicle drive: 12–16 feet, usually as a double swing or a slide.

Measure what actually has to get through before we build. Widening a gate afterward means new posts.

Can you install an automatic driveway gate?

Yes — we install swing and slide gate systems with operators, and coordinate with owner-furnished access control and badging on commercial sites.

What drives the design: driveway width, slope at the gate, whether the drive rises toward the gate (which rules out some swing configurations), available power, and how you want to open it — keypad, transmitter, cell/intercom, loop detector or card reader.

Note that for operated residential gates, the electronics side should be handled by a licensed electronics installer. We build the gate and the structure it hangs on. See automated gate work.

Swing gate or slide gate?

Swing is simpler and usually less expensive, but it needs clear arc space and doesn't work well when the driveway slopes up toward the opening. Double swing halves the arc of a single leaf.

Slide — roller or cantilever — needs room alongside the opening for the gate to travel, but is unaffected by slope and handles wide openings well. Cantilever slides carry no ground track, so they don't jam with gravel, ice or debris, which is why they dominate commercial and industrial sites.

National figures put cantilever installations around $6,000–$10,000, meaningfully above a swing.

Do you build dumpster and mechanical screening enclosures?

Yes, and it's a routine part of our commercial work. Dumpster enclosures take a beating — they get hit by trucks, dragged by casters, and left open in the wind.

That means the build matters: heavy posts, drop rods to hold leaves open and closed, and hardware sized for real abuse rather than appearance. Many municipalities and developers also specify screening material and height, which we build to. See dumpster gate work.

Can you add a gate to my existing fence?

Usually yes. The question is always the posts — an existing line post is generally not sized or set to carry a gate, so adding one typically means setting a proper gate post rather than hanging a leaf off what's there.

Same goes for widening an existing gate. Call us and we'll look at it. Fence repair services.

What commercial fencing do you install?

Security and perimeter fencing for general contractors, developers, municipalities and industrial owners: heavy-gauge commercial and industrial chain link, ornamental steel and aluminum campus perimeters, automated gates and access control coordination, substation and equipment-yard enclosures, athletic and institutional fencing including backstops to 24 feet, dumpster and mechanical screening, temporary construction fencing, and custom fabrication and welding.

Full detail on our commercial capabilities page.

How do I send you a bid package?

Send site plans, specifications, scope and schedule to info@lcfence.com. Our process:

  • Site review and takeoff, typically within five business days
  • Detailed proposal with submittals and product data
  • Coordination, scheduling and badging with the GC or site
  • Installation by in-house crews, then walkthrough and closeout
Are you licensed, bonded and insured for commercial work?

Yes. Tennessee Contractor License #54371 — Unlimited classification. Under Tenn. Comp. R. & Regs. 0680-01-.13, an unlimited license allows a contractor "to bid or offer to contract on any project within a classification" — no monetary ceiling. Few fence contractors in this region hold one.

We carry $6,000,000 aggregate bonding through Merchants Bonding Company, $5,000,000 general liability, workers' compensation in force, and a CPA-audited financial statement on file. Certificates of insurance, W-9 and surety letters are furnished on request.

Do not take our word for it — verify any Tennessee contractor license here.

Are you registered to work on federal projects?

Yes. We are an active SAM.gov registered contractorUEI GT7AXJ8CY8R1, CAGE 37ZM1, primary NAICS 238990, registration active through December 16, 2026. We are a veteran-owned small business.

Past performance includes the Tennessee Valley Authority, the TRISO-X fuel facility in Oak Ridge, U.S. Department of Energy area facilities, and Lenoir City Utilities Board. Download our capability statement.

Have you worked on controlled-access and DOE-area sites?

Yes. We have delivered exterior perimeter and internal structural fencing at the TRISO-X fuel facility in Oak Ridge, security fence for the Tennessee Valley Authority, and fencing on DOE-area facilities.

Practically, that means our crews are familiar with badging, escort requirements and site security procedures — and that we are 25 minutes from Oak Ridge, ETTP and Horizon Center, so we can put people on site the same day.

Do you work in the Oak Ridge and Roane County industrial corridor?

Constantly — it is the most active construction corridor in our service area. Anderson and Roane counties are absorbing one of the largest concentrations of industrial and energy investment in Tennessee, including Orano's Project IKE enrichment facility in Roane County, X-energy's TRISO-X fuel fabrication facility at Horizon Center, and Kairos Power's Hermes reactors at the East Tennessee Technology Park.

We fence security perimeters, laydown yards, substations, temporary construction enclosures and equipment yards across that corridor. Oak Ridge · Roane County · Anderson County.

Do you install temporary construction fencing?

Yes — site perimeter and phased enclosures during active construction, including reconfiguration as the site progresses. Call the office at (865) 988-9935 with your schedule and phasing and we'll work out the plan.

What kind of fence do I need for livestock?

It depends on the animal:

  • Horses: board fence or no-climb woven wire mesh. Avoid anything a hoof can go through and catch.
  • Cattle: high-tensile, barbed, or woven wire depending on the operation
  • Goats and sheep: woven wire with small openings — goats defeat almost everything else
  • Boundary only, no containment: high-tensile is the cheapest durable option, under about $1.25 per foot in national data

Farm and agricultural fencing.

Am I legally required to fence in my livestock in Tennessee?

Yes. Tennessee is a "fence-in" state — the duty to contain is on the livestock owner, not on the neighbor to fence them out.

"It is unlawful for the owners of any livestock… to willfully allow the livestock to run at large in this state." A violation "is a Class C misdemeanor."Tenn. Code Ann. § 44-8-401

Under § 44-8-402, a party damaged by loose stock "shall have a lien upon the stock, which lien shall be enforced by attachment."

General information, not legal advice.

What counts as a "lawful fence" in Tennessee?

Tenn. Code Ann. § 44-8-102 defines sufficient fencing, and the list is older than it looks: stone walls at least 3½ feet high, post-and-plank at 4 feet, rail fences at 5 feet, specified barbed-wire configurations, Osage orange hedge at 4 feet, and synthetic materials "installed pursuant to generally acceptable standards."

That last clause is what modern high-tensile and woven wire systems fall under.

How is farm fence built differently?

The corners do the work. Line posts on farm fence typically run 10 to 12 feet apart and are set at least 2 feet deep, preferably deeper — but the whole system depends on properly braced corner and end assemblies, usually around 4 feet, because that is what holds tension.

A high-tensile fence with weak corners is a fence that goes slack in a season. It is the least visible part of the job and the part that determines whether it lasts.

What does it cost to fence acreage?

Far less per foot than residential privacy fencing — but the footage is much larger, so total cost surprises people either way. National per-foot figures: high-tensile 5-strand electrified around $0.89–$1.24, woven wire about $1.50–$1.90, welded wire $3.50–$10, no-climb horse mesh $3–$10, board fence about $17–$22, barbed wire $1.25–$1.50.

For perspective, a square 10-acre parcel has roughly 2,640 feet of perimeter. Terrain, creek crossings, gates and corner assemblies drive the real number, which is why we walk it.

What warranty comes with my fence?

Two separate things, and it's worth knowing the difference.

Manufacturer warranty covers the material and comes from whoever made it. These can be long — Ameristar's Montage ornamental line is a lifetime limited residential warranty against cracking, peeling, chipping, blistering and corrosion resulting in structural failure, though gates are only one year and it is not transferable. CertainTeed Bufftech vinyl is lifetime to the original homeowner, capped at 30 years on transfer.

Workmanship warranty covers our installation and is stated in your written proposal. Ask any contractor for theirs in writing — the industry has no standard, and verbal assurances are worth what you paid for them.

When should I stain or seal a new wood fence?

Not immediately, and not too late. Pressure-treated wood should be stained within about six weeks of construction, provided the wood is sufficiently dry.

Use the water test: sprinkle water on the boards. If it beads up, the wood is still too wet — wait several days and test again. If it absorbs, you're ready. If you clean the fence first, give it about 24 hours before staining.

Note that we install fences and gates; painting and staining is best handled by a painter.

How do I maintain my fence?

By material:

  • Wood: clean and re-stain or re-seal every 2–3 years. Keep mulch, soil and sprinkler spray off the pickets and away from post bases.
  • Vinyl: wash it. Do not paint it — that voids most manufacturer warranties.
  • Aluminum: essentially nothing. Rinse it; touch up chips in the powder coat.
  • Chain link: nothing routine. Check tension bands and gate hardware annually.
  • Farm fence: check tension and brace assemblies each season; clear brush and downed limbs.

Universal advice: keep vegetation off the fence and keep the string trimmer away from the base of wood posts.

Do you repair fences you didn't install?

Yes. Storm damage, vehicle impact, rotted or leaning posts, sagging gates, replacement sections and re-stretching chain link are all routine work for us.

Sometimes the honest answer after we look is that repair is throwing money at a fence at the end of its life — in which case we will tell you that rather than sell you a repair. Fence repair in Knoxville.

My fence was damaged in a storm — will insurance cover it?

Often, under the "other structures" coverage on a standard homeowners policy, subject to your deductible. Whether it's worth filing depends on the repair cost against that deductible.

What helps: photograph the damage before anything is moved, and get a written repair estimate. We provide documentation suitable for an insurance claim. Your carrier makes the coverage decision, not us.

My fence is leaning. Can it be fixed, or does it need replacing?

Depends what's failing. If a few posts have rotted at grade and the pickets and rails are sound, replacing posts is a real repair and worth doing.

If posts are failing across the whole run, the wood is checked and cupping, and the hardware is rusted through, you're looking at a fence at the end of its service life — and post-by-post repair becomes an annual expense. Pressure-treated pine reaching 12 to 15 years is usually telling you something.

We'll look and give you the straight assessment.

How long has Loudon County Fence been in business?

Since 1973 — over 50 years, in the same family, continuously operating in East Tennessee. We are a veteran-owned small business based at 5482 Hwy 321 N in Lenoir City.

If you see a different "years in business" figure on a third-party directory listing, the 1973 founding date is the correct one. More about us.

Do you use subcontractors or your own crew?

Both, and we'd rather say so plainly than claim otherwise. Installation is primarily self-performed by our in-house crews. Where we do use subcontractors, they are vetted to our standards — not brokered out to whoever is available.

Ask this question of every contractor you're considering. A surprising number of "fence companies" are sales operations that never touch a post-hole digger.

Can you build custom or non-standard fence and gates?

Yes — we have in-house fabrication and welding for custom gates, security handrail, non-standard assemblies and odd conditions. Past custom work includes black security handrail and 24-foot athletic backstops.

If it's metal, on a fence line, and doesn't come out of a catalog, bring it to us.

What is your rating and how many reviews do you have?

Our current Google rating and review count are displayed live on this site — we pull them straight from Google rather than typing a number into a page, so what you see is current rather than whatever was true when someone last updated the website.

We are also BBB A+ accredited and Google Guaranteed. Read reviews.

How do I reach you?

Phone: (865) 988-9935
Email: info@lcfence.com
Address: 5482 Hwy 321 N, Lenoir City, TN 37771
Hours: Monday–Friday, 8:00am–4:00pm

You can also request a free estimate online any time, or use our contact form.

No questions matched that search.

Try a shorter term, or call us at (865) 988-9935 — we would rather answer it than have you guess.

Still have a question?

If it isn't answered here, ask us directly. Estimates are free, in person, and there is no charge to pick our brains about your property.

Cost figures cited are national published ranges from HomeGuide, Fixr, Angi and HomeAdvisor as of late 2025 and 2026, and are not quotes. Material price movement is from U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics Producer Price Index data through July 2026. Code and statute references were current when written; ordinances change, and several jurisdictions in our service area do not publish complete fence provisions — always confirm requirements with your city or county for your specific parcel. Nothing here is legal advice.

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Working With Us — The Practical Questions

Warranty, crews, cleanup, payment and what happens when the ground does not cooperate.

What warranty comes with a new fence?

Two separate things cover your fence, and it is worth knowing which is which. Materials carry the manufacturer's warranty — vinyl and powder-coated aluminum often carry long or limited-lifetime terms, pressure-treated lumber carries its own. Workmanship is ours, and covers how the fence was built and set. Ask any bidder to state both in writing, and ask specifically whether workmanship coverage survives if they go out of business. We have been in business since 1973, which is the honest answer to that question.

Will your own crews build my fence, or subcontractors?

We self-perform our fence and gate work rather than brokering it out. It matters because a subcontracted crew has no stake in your warranty and often no way to reach the person who sold you the job. Ask any contractor you are considering whether the people setting your posts work for them, and who you call in two years if a gate drops.

What happens if you hit rock?

Around Knoxville, plan on it as a possibility rather than a surprise. Knox County sits on carbonate bedrock with chert running through the soil above it, and depth to rock can change dramatically within a single property — easy augering at five feet, refusal at fourteen inches fifty feet away. When we hit rock we drill and pin the post rather than shortening it and hoping. Because it is genuinely unpredictable, ask every bidder how rock is handled in their contract — a quote that ignores it is a quote that will change.

Do you clean up and haul away the debris?

Yes. Old fence, posts, concrete footings, offcuts and packaging all leave with us, and we run a magnet over the work area for dropped fasteners — which matters if you have children, dogs, or mow the strip yourself. If you want the old material left for your own use, say so and we will stack it instead.

How should I prepare before the crew arrives?

Four things help most: clear the fence line of furniture, planters, firewood and anything stored against the old fence; make sure we can get equipment in, including unlocking a side gate; plan for pets, because the yard will be open for part of the job; and flag anything buried that 811 will not mark — private irrigation lines, invisible-fence wire, septic laterals and low-voltage lighting are the owner's responsibility to identify.

What are your payment terms?

A deposit covers material, which is ordered for your specific job, with the balance due on completion. We do not ask for the full amount before work starts, and you should be cautious of anyone who does. You will get a written agreement covering material, linear footage, gate count and locations, who locates the property line, and how rock is handled. Financing is available if you would rather spread the cost — ask when we quote.

Should I hire a professional or build the fence myself?

A short, flat run of chain link or a few panels is a reasonable DIY project. What sends most East Tennessee DIY fences wrong is not the carpentry — it is the posts and the line. Rock changes the plan, clay holds water against a post and works it loose over a few seasons, corners and gate posts carry far more load than line posts and need bracing to a different standard, and a fence built on the wrong side of the boundary becomes a title problem rather than a fencing one. If your run is long, sloped, rocky, or anywhere near a disputed line, the labour saving usually evaporates.

Do you charge for an estimate?

No. Estimates are free and done in person on your property, because we cannot see your slope, rock, trees, easements or property line from a phone call. You get a firm written number for a defined scope rather than a range that moves once work begins. Call (865) 988-9935 to book one.